Chasing Desert Dreams (MO to KS)

Already dreading the 2-day drive through Kansas, Josh and I were reluctant to leave St. Louis but got an early start. Half way to Topeka, we had a hankering for some  Kansas City BBQ and used our handy-dandy smart phone to find a lunch stop. Luckily, we stumbled upon the infamous Arthur Bryant's Barbeque, a historic KC landmark which has hosted the likes of Presidents Truman and Carter, Robert Redford, Jack Nicholson, Wilt Chamberlain and more. The original restaurant just happens to be a stone's throw from I-70 and the line from the lunch crowd was starting to dwindle when we pulled in at 2:30.

Josh was having a mini panic attack in the quick-moving queue, trying to decide between chicken, ribs, beef or the house specialty 'burnt ends'. We were surrounded by Arthur's regulars who informed us not to hymn and haw at the window, or the no-nonsense cooks behind the glass would pass us by! Thankfully, a crew of hungry-looking guys behind us recommended a fan favorite - the turkey/beef brisket combo sandwich.

Pouring the sauce over a turkey and beef brisket sandwich

The magical mess of meat, white bread, pickles and fries was spread across a giant piece of parchment paper and doused with Arthur's special BBQ sauce - Yum! We took our 'sandwich' to-go and picnicked on the grass outside. Peanut was all to eager to help with the leftovers!

Quintessential Kansas scenery

After lunch, we struck out over the plains of Kansas, motoring for miles without a town in site. I applaud Katharine Lee Bates for making the 'amber waves of grain' seem so majestic in the song America the Beautiful. I can only assume that she had seen them from a great distance, and didn't spend a day driving through them! The majesty can be somewhat lost on the weary cross-country traveler.

When we arrived in Topeka, we took in the tiny capital city of Kansas and then made our way to Monroe Elementary School. This seemingly inauspicious brick building on the outskirts of town is the historic site of the Brown v. Board of Education lawsuit that eventually dismantled the legal basis for racial segregation in schools and public facilities across our nation. Inside the school, the small classrooms and knee-high water fountains set the scene. Innovative, intelligent teachers who were confined to teach in all-black elementary schools. Young, innocent children whose parents rallied together to win this groundbreaking class action suit.

Monroe Elementary School - Brown vs. Board Historic Site

The interactive exhibits are a wealth of information and really engage you in history. Walking the halls and classrooms, you are transported to a time in the not too distant past when 'separate but equal' was an acceptable way of life. Josh and I were moved, embarrassed, humbled and enlightened during this emotional history lesson. We would put Monroe Elementary on the 'must see' list of anyone traveling through Topeka, Kansas.

Hard to imagine, harder still to forget

Topeka Capitol Building

We hooked up with our new CouchSurfing hosts, Jim and Lisa, at their country home just outside Topeka. Peanut was excited to run and roll in the grass and cozy up to their 12yr old terrier, Maggie. We've found that, in general, CouchSurfer conversations tend to be no-holds-barred. In the one night we stayed with Jim and Lisa, we chatted about everything from family to religion to politics. They also introduced us to the fantastic Globe Indian Cuisine restaurant (You're not in Kansas anymore, Dorothy!) where we split garlic naan bread and shared steaming plates of spicy goodness. After a delicious dinner, we crashed on a comfy airbed in Jim and Lisa's guest room and let the crickets lull us to sleep.

Jim & Lisa's place

Chasing Desert Dreams (IN to MO)

On Sunday, September 12, we made a b-line for St. Louis, passing through Illinois and over the Mississippi River along the way. Most of the drive was pretty unremarkable (think fields and cow pastures, stretching out for miles and miles). But we did manage to catch a photo of a gigantic shining cross, towering over the highway in Illinois. We took it as a sign of all the prayers Josh's mom sent out in church that morning! 

Tried to get all the Welcome to... signs as we passed by

A Baptist's woman's work in action!

Awww... I just missed the Welcome to MO sign... twice!

We missed our exit and got turned around, but managed to arrive at our new host's townhouse just in time to join her for a CouchSurfing potluck in town. The 3 of us piled in Laurie's car and headed off to meet some other new friends while Peanut stayed behind to play with Laurie's dog, Diva (who was super-friendly, but roughly 6 times his size!). 

Laurie's dog, Diva

At the potluck, we met a couple dozen local St. Louis CouchSurfers who had some great stories (and edible goodies and local Schlafly beer!) to share. Abby, an energetic college grad was leaving in a week for AmeriCorps chainsaw and wilderness training! Stephen passed his amazing Dishpan Cookies around the campfire (see recipe below)! Laurie chimed in with the unbelievable (yet true) tale of how her daughter funded her round-the-world trip with her big win on The Price is Right!

The next morning, Laurie had to work, but she pointed us in the direction of the nearby and pleasantly paved Grant's Trail (http://stlbiking.com/Trail-GrantsTrail.htm). Josh chose to run while I headed out on 2 wheels past fun local attractions like The Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site and Grants Farm, where I could see the majestic Anheuser-Busch Clydesdales grazing just beyond a little white fence (www.grantsfarm.com). Too bad I didn't have the camera handy!

After our morning exercise, we cleaned up and drove down into the city for some sightseeing. Josh and I stood captivated near the waterfront in the shadow of the awesome St. Louis Arch, which stands 630ft tall and hovers above the city (www.gatewayarch.com). We made our way underground and paid $10 each to climb inside a tiny, egg-like capsule with 2 other tourists, hoping to challenge Josh's fear of heights with a harrowing ride to the top of the Arch. Unfortunately, there aren't any windows in the side of the building, so the only fear to face on the way up was claustrophobia. But the view from the top was worth the ride, a stunning portrait of downtown St. Louis! We could see the Capitol Building, Busch Stadium (home of the Cardinal's baseball) and the paddle boats on the Mississippi River far below.

A peek inside the tiny pod that climbs the Arch

View of downtown St. Louis from the Arch

Josh captured my perfect cartwheel under the Arch

When we arrived back on solid ground, the afternoon sun was high in the sky, so we decided to stay below the surface and check out the Museum of Westward Expansion. There were beautiful displays of animals, vehicles and scenery that depicted Americans' journey across the Mississippi to inhabit the western United States. Josh was particularly fond of the baseball exhibit, which detailed the founding and development of the Major League teams across the US.

Looks real enough to saddle up and ride!

Just call me Captain Meg

Cheering on the team in the Cardinal's baseball exhibit

The Arch, the Capitol Building and The Runner in the fountain

There's nothing like CouchSurfing to make you feel right at home after a long, hot day of walking in a new city! That evening, Laurie, Josh and I worked together to create one of her favorite recipes from the Moosewood Cookbook, Zucchini-Crusted Pizza. 

This was an amazing dish, bursting with veggies and flavor that all you calorie-counting, wheat-conscious, pizza loving kids should try!  Here's the link to the recipe: www.molliekatzen.com/recipes/recipe.php?recipe=zucchini_pizza. But, Laurie wouldn't forgive me if I didn't provide the following caveat: Never use aluminum foil! 

We shared a drink, toasted to CouchSurfing and to each other's good fortune and shared a great meal on our last night in St. Louis.

Laurie's signature zucchini-crusted pizza - yum!

Laurie, Brett, Josh and I  - To CouchSurfing!

Delectable Dishpan Cookies
recipe by: CS Stephen

2 c. white sugar
2 c. brown sugar
3/4 c. oil
1 c butter (melted)
2 tsp. vanilla
4 eggs (beaten)
4 c. flour
2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
2 tsp. cream of tartar
1 c. coconut
1 c. oatmeal
1 bag Heath toffee bits
4 c. rice krispies

1. Cream sugars, oil, melted butter, and vanilla.
2. Beat eggs together and mix into batter.
3. Add flour, baking soda, salt, and cream of tartar.
4. Stir in coconut, oatmeal, toffee bits, and rice krispies.
5. Bake at 350 for 11-12 minutes or until golden brown.

Chasing Desert Dreams (MI to IN)

Last weekend, we loaded up the car with 2 suitcases of clothing, 2 mountain bikes and Peanut's toys, and headed west toward Arizona like a couple of modern day cowboys! Well, our covered wagon is a Mazda 3, our cattle herder is a lap-sitting min-pin and our saddle bags were made by L.L. Bean... but you get the idea. 

 









We're moving out to the desert in search of something more valuable than land or gold. The goal of this journey is to reach out, over the horizon and stake our claim on a vision for our future, a lifestyle to be proud of and passionate about and a better sense of our place and purpose in this world.

In preparing our road trip itinerary, Josh and I decided it was important to stop in a few places where we might someday want to settle down. So, I created a route that would take us through St. Louis, Colorado Springs and Santa Fe. Then, I diligently poured over CouchSurfer profiles and sought out some like-minded folks to bunk with in each city along the way. (And, of course, I printed copies of our itinerary and hosts for friends and family, just in case...)


The first official couch we surfed was the single sofa bed of Jay in Indianapolis, IN (actually, Peanut and I called dibs on the sofa and Josh got the floor!). Jay offered up his cozy little apartment and took us out for dinner in Broad Ripple, a quaint, low-key area north of the city, close to shops and the Monon Bike Trail (www.indianatrails.org/Monon_Indy). 

We had dressed-up salads and hand-cut frites at local micro-brewery called 'The Brugge' (www.bruggebrasserie.com), and of course Josh and Jay sampled the selections on draft. After dinner, we stopped at an enormous beer, wine and liquor emporium so the boys could grab a couple more local brews. Below is a shot of Jay, Josh and 'Grandpa Jack' Daniels at Kahn's Fine Wines Spirits (www.kahnsfinewines.com).

Back at Jay's apartment, we swapped stories about traveling, family and music and Jay introduced us to all sorts of new bands. He was even kind enough to upload tons of folksy, funky tunes onto our hard-drive to add to our CouchSurfing mix! Our first night as CouchSurfers was a smashing success, so we left in the morning jazzed about our new playlist and excited to meet our next hosts in St. Louis, MO.

A Still Summer

Travel took pause this summer. We didn’t make it to South Africa, South America or even very far from South Rockwood. They say you can’t go home again. But home is exactly where we landed and stayed, for much longer than we had anticipated.

It was no easy task, fitting our lives into someone else’s closets. Harder still to find our place in their routines, their daily rituals. All grown-up now and accustomed to life as a twosome, we brought with us boxes full of new ideas, new ways of being, brazen thoughts about how lives should be lived. Then we hastily unpacked and set up shop.

Somehow, after the invasion, when the dust began to settle we found ourselves stumbling through a symbiotic dance, sharing the space, the chores, the meals, the laughter, and learning to side-step most sensitive topics. We gave a little and got more than we could have imagined. 

There was work to be done, and we rallied to do it, and cursed under our breath when the world got in our way. We learned things together, we watched each other rise to the occasion (and sometimes fall), and the take-away message is with us still. We grew. 

I am writing as a witness. You can go home again. The place, the people, everything is still there. But it is not waiting for you with baited breath. It is in flux, breathing, changing, moving on without you.

So, when you do go home, you must tread gently. Try not to invade. Instead, listen and learn. Participate with an open mind and an open heart.

Take note that the fruit that hangs heavy from the trees grew from seeds sown while you were away. Take time to break open that fruit and share it with the ones you left behind. Thank them for their patience, their love and their support. And, when you leave again, feel blessed, knowing that they will miss you when you’re gone.