Volcanic Activity

Early this morning (I’m talking ‘time to get ready for work’ early!) we stepped up to the challenge of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing - a 19km hike over active volcanoes, craters and fields of magma that is listed in all the tour guides as one of the world’s and/or New Zealand’s ‘Great Walks’. We woke in pitch darkness at 5am to catch the 1hr shuttle from Riverstone Backpackers in Turangi to Tongariro National Park. After a night of tossing and turning (Did we pack enough water? Enough food? Did Josh set the alarm? Would we make it without the gloves and knit hat recommended in the guide book?), I mechanically shoveled in some musli and yogurt and we were out the door.

Since arriving in New Zealand we had read and heard all different stories and rumors about the Tongariro. The average time to finish the day-long walk is 7-8 hours, however some do it in 10 or stay in huts overnight. The weather can change unexpectedly - rain, snow, sleet and hail have been recorded in every season. There aren’t any emergency crews or supplies along the track, just a hut or 2 for basic shelter from the elements. And… as if all that isn’t treacherous enough, did I mention that the volcanoes are ACTIVE?!? In fact, Mt. Ruapehu erupted as recently as winter of the 1995, spewing hot ash and rocks on the nearby ski slopes (and any skiers in its path).

The challenge first presented itself early in our trip. Before we got to Auckland, we were invited by a couchsurfing couple to join them for the hike - driving 4 hrs from Auckland, staying the night, run-walking the route in ½ the time typically required and driving back afterward. When they divulged their ambitious plans, we decided to pass.

I was disappointed, but determined to make it happen if we got the chance! So, with a bit more tramping experience under our belts and only a few days left before getting back to Auckland, we decided to stay a couple nights near Tongariro and have a go at it.

We arrived at the carpark around 7am, a thick fog covered the ground and droplets formed on my hair as soon as we stepped out of the shuttle. Although it was warm for dawn, I put on my softshell and hat to avoid a wet shirt in the first 10 minutes of the walk. There were 10 or so of us gathered at the starting line, marked by a lean-to shelter and a small sign that pointed the way to the track. We started off, walking through the cloud toward the grey shapes looming in the distance. 

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The first part of the hike was quite easy, a well marked path encouraged us across gravelly lava rock, tufts of dry grass the only vegetation about. For the first hour, we made a slow incline along a creek bed toward soda springs, a waterfall leaking from deep within the red rocks. Upon passing the springs, we made a sharp turn toward Mt. Ngauruhoe.

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The pace slowed as we climbed the rocky face of the hill, switching back and pausing to catch our breath several times as we watched the clouds of fog tumble over the ridgeline between Mt. Ngauruhoe and Mt. Tongariro and start to evaporate as the sun peaked through. At the saddle, just before reaching the South Crater, could see the tops of both mountains on either side. Mt. Tongariro beckoned a hike to the summit on a well-worn, albeit very steep dirt path. On our right, Mt. Ngauruhoe was much more foreboding, a massive grey volcano with red rock at the rim, face dashed with rock scree slopes and no visible marked route. (Note: The one-page guide noted that the summit of Mt. N ‘should be avoided if there are signs of increased volcanic activity.’ Luckily, there were no apparent signs today!) Being cautious with our time (and remembering our immense health insurance deductible), we decided to skip the summits and head on toward the crater.

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The route to the South Crater led us across a bleak, red dirt desert encircled by ridges, something like you’d expect to see on the surface of mars. We tossed our jackets in our packs as the morning heat started to wear on us. At the edge of the desert, we had to hike straight upward again, climbing the northern ridge to get a look at the muddy, thermal pool in the crater below. There were trampers down below, close to the crater’s edge and we couldn’t help but think of the gruesome scene there’d be if the pool suddenly erupted. 

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The ridge line here was much windier than the track just a few feet below! We found a sheltered spot behind a giant red rock (another place NOT to be during volcanic activity), put our jackets back on and had our morning tea (giant, juicy oranges and water). After a short break, we were back at it, moving slowly but surely up the ridge line on loose red rock. The path was quite narrow and slippery in some places, but we worked our way to the highest point of the track, overlook to the Red Crater at 1886m. The impressive burnt crimson and black face of the crater, like a hollowed out hillside is an impressive reminder of the forces Mother Nature holds. There is a gouge in face of the crater, flanked by folds of white and grey boulders, like a deliberate scalpel cut to expose the blood red rock deep in the earth. A few meters more up the ridge, we came around the bend and were welcomed by the sight of 4 gorgeous turquoise thermal pools below. Strange seas of blue and green in a desolate, sandy landscape – an otherworldly sight, well worth the climb.

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The next few kilometers of the hike were straight downhill toward the Emerald Lakes. You’d expect that we’d be relieved, our cardio workout over for the time being. But, here on the other side of the world, we’ve found that the downhill bits typically rival the uphill, requiring more thoughtful climbing and death defying technical measures than raw physical stamina! 

The slope off the other side of the ridge was ridiculously steep and long, add to that the dune-like grey sand beneath our feet as well as the odd rock or boulder every few steps, just to keep things interesting. We slid and skidded down the hill, working against gravity. We tried digging in our heels, moving sideways at a snail’s pace and even falling on our bottoms a few times - all this work to avoid a swift tumble to the bottom or into the crater on either side of us.

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The beauty of the Emerald Lakes and the much larger Blue Lake encouraged much oohs, aahs and picture taking. Imagine quiet pools of pristine blue water, flat and waveless, with no signs of vegetation or sealife. Wafts of sulphery steam rising from the edges kept us at a distance, though some weary trampers stopped here for an early lunch picnic. We kept on, determined to make it to the K hut by noon and start our decent to the carpark.

The hut was an hour and a half downhill from the Blue Lake. We could see it in the distance, but knew the switchbacks on the hill would make for a longer route than necessary. The only sounds were the rhythmic crunching of gravel beneath us and the buzzing of swarms of flies at random intervals. As we walked, we noticed the vegetation start to sprout back up around us. First, there were the tufts of dry grasses, then a few low dandelions and scrub flowers. Further down the hill, the scrub reached knee level and there were bushes with small red berries and purple flowers.

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We walked through a private reserve of hot pools and could see the steam rising from the face of the hill in the distance. Every so often, we’d need to stop to push our heels backward in our shoes, relieving the pressure gravity was inflicting on our toes! When we finally made it to the hut, it was 11:45am, time to take off our shoes, wiggle our toes and lunch on tuna hoagie sandwiches!

After lunch at the hut, we were revved up and ready to get on with the last leg of the hike. We trekked further down the path, the vegetation seeming to grow up around us as we walked. Soon, we were moving quickly down a man-made staircase, flanked on either side by lush, green ferns, palms and jungle branches. The cicadas and birds started to make their presence know and were soon humming and chirping in full force. Around a turn, we suddenly came upon a rushing stream and then took a short side trip to a waterfall. We stopped to watch the clear, bubbling water hurdling over the mossy rocks, making its way down from the hills above at a much faster pace than we were. It looked refreshing enough for a dip and reminded us that a hot shower awaited back at the lodge. 

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We made our way out of the jungle to the clearing and stepped directly into a carpark filled with cars, camper vans and a few other hikers – an abrupt return to civilization and reality! We laid down our gear and took a rest in the grass to wait for our shuttle, spent from the day’s incredible journey and pleased we’d made the trip.

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Northern Tip of the Southern Island

We decided to make our way up the west coast of to reach the top of the South Island and the harbor towns of Nelson and Picton. Sounds idyllic, but this journey entailed a harrowing 5 hour bus ride along the narrow, winding costal highway and through switchback mountain passes. Josh nearly lost his lunch within the first 20 minutes! But, this was our fate, as we’d chosen the Intercity Bus instead of an expensive car rental and the potential dangers of driving on the opposite side of the road. We arrived in Nelson at the Almond House late that evening and were more than happy to walk 15 minutes to the grocery store for our dinner, as long as there was no public transport involved! From the Almond House, we were able to go running and reach the Centre of New Zealand. This outlook, high atop a hill outside of town, is the geographical centre of the country. We borrowed the bikes from the lodge and rode to Tahunanui Beach. This long strip of white sand is a gathering place for families, kite surfers and sunbathers alike. We walked for what seemed like miles on the sand spit, watching minnows play in the tidal pools. The water was warm, shallow and clear, perfect for swimming or snorkeling. We lay in the sand for most of the day, soaking up rays, reading our books and watching a lone kite surfer try to get enough wind to skim the gentle waves.   The next day, we borrowed bikes again and attempted a mountain biking trail near the lodge. We followed a quiet country road out of town, along a stream and past parks and fields. To access the mountain biking track, we had to carry our bikes across a narrow wooden bridge. The track, listed as ‘easy’ in the guidebook, started out fine but soon became much less than ‘easy’. The path was rocky and narrow and the trees closed in around us. We climbed enormous hills and had to walk our bikes to the top. As Josh plummeted down the steep track in front of me, the words ‘travel insurance’ and ‘traumatic brain injury’ flashed in my mind. Knowing that I couldn’t enjoy this wild ride, I suggested we make a b-line across the nearby golf course and take the equally scenic (but safely paved) road back home.   We got to chatting with the owners of the Almond House, Fiona and her husband Paul, and discovered that they had purchased the already established backpacker lodge 3 years ago and moved into the main residence with their 3 young children. The house is set on a quiet residential street about 20 minutes (walking) from Nelson city centre. After several repairs and updates, when the backyard, swimming pool, self-contained accommodations and separate kitchen were up to their standards, Fiona and Paul started to realize that their growing family needed more privacy. As luck would have it, their friends, who owned the home next door to the lodge, decided to take off and sail the world and approached Fiona and Paul to rent their home in the interim. Their family moved into the house next door and converted the main Almond House into dorm accommodations with a kitchen and living area.  Fiona related that the business requires a lot of work and upkeep, but she is very happy with the way things have turned out. She said that she’s constantly amazed at the way her children have adapted to and love life with visitors and tourists – they’re able to learn all about the world without ever leaving the backyard!  On our last night in Nelson, we met Paul and one of the Almond House backpackers at The Sprig and Fern, a local pub. The atmosphere at this popular watering hole was unique and delightful! On tap were tons of locally brewed beers and ciders as well as plenty of New Zealand wine. There were giant chalkboards painted above the bar that held funky quotes, random facts and brain teaser games. One of these was designated as the ‘Buy Your Mate a Beer’ board, where the bartender lists brews pre-purchased by customers for their friends. The cider and beer didn’t make an early morning bus ride to Picton any easier, but at least this trip was only 2 hours!  In Picton, we visited the uber-small fishing village and at the stayed at the Sequoia Lodge. This was a more traditional backpacker lodge, but they did have a few unique twists including: a giant chess board in the courtyard, a hot tub and (Josh’s favorite) free homemade chocolate bread pudding, baked fresh every evening, drizzled with chocolate sauce and served with a generous dollop of vanilla ice cream! Good thing (for our waistlines) we only stayed one night in Picton before catching the ferry to the North Island.

My Apologies

After reading over the posts I’ve written, I feel the need to apologize, not only to my readers, but also and especially to the indescribable land-meets-seascape of New Zealand. 

Although my posts recite some of the things we’ve done, they do little to capture the sights, scents and sounds of this paradise. I may be at a loss to achieve this, other much better authors have certainly tried. But, if I were to give it a go,I might try to explain…

~The way the ferns, pines, palms and grasses overlap, falling in on each other, creating a patchwork of deep, bright green that blankets the mountains for miles around.
~How the sun and sky play on the sea, as if God is turning a handful of giant turquoise jewels, the movement and glints of color captivating you, catching your breath.
~How the evening clouds, smudged pinky-orange from the heat of the setting sun, hang low over the ocean, mimicking a distant mountain range.
~The milky-blue of the hydrangeas, huddled together in giant bunches on footpaths and in courtyards.
~The way the trails of regenerating bush close in on you, beckoning you into leafy dark spaces where the air is fresh and damp, spaces that beg low voices, soft treading.
~How the sandy white sheep cock their heads and stare curiously as you come up the path, only to turn tail and scuttle up the paddock when you get too close.
~The salty fog, caught between the sea and alps, capping the mountains in a hazy cloud that will burn off before mid-morning.

But, on second thought, perhaps it is better to hold my tongue than to chance misrepresentation. Instead I think I’ll leave it to your vivid imagination, hoping your dreams will bring you here to share it with us.

Punakaiki & The Pancake Rocks

This post catches you up on our adventures between Christchurch and tramping the Tongariro volcanoes…

On Thursday, it was raining in Christchurch and that was ok by us! We were able to spend a lazy, rainy day, recuperating from the 2-day Banks Peninsula hike and planning our next moves. We did some laundry and hung out at Geoff and Shelly’s during the day. In the evening, we took them to dinner at a great local Thai place (a small token in attempt to reciprocate for all they’d done for us). We chatted some more about life, dreams and ideas. No conclusions made yet, but it is helpful hear the stories of other brave souls who confirm that the decision to make the leap is the hard part!

On Friday, we took another recommendation from Geoff and Shelly and started to make our way to the west coast of the South Island. Shelly drove us to the train station and we boarded the TransAlpine for Greymouth. The train is a four hour scenic ride through the quiet New Zealand countryside, across farms, fields and then through the valleys of the Southern Alps.

We sat back in awe at the green hills and mountains passing by. But, even more interesting than the scenery were the tiny towns we passed on the route and the history they held. The conductor retold the story of the gold rush that sent New Zealanders literally running for the hills. They traveled on horseback and by covered wagon to the 'wild west', settling the land and setting up shop, all in search of a better life. When the gold was gone, so were the settlers. They left little behind in these shanty towns. If not for a couple ancient hotels and saloons scattered in deserted valleys, you would never know they existed. Hmmm... sound familiar???

TransAlpine Train from Christchurch to Greymouth

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Two of Geoff’s fantastic cycle guiding staff, Ayuka & Alison, were kind enough to let us hitch a ride on the guest bus from Greymouth  to Punakaiki. After a scenic drive up the bluffs of the west coast, we arrived at the Te Nikau Retreat. (This accomodation was another great find, recommended to us by a local Couchsurfer as well as Geoff and Shelley.) Te Nikau consisted of several huts, cabins and cottages, set off the main road in a secluded bush reserve. The accommodations were built from local wood from floors to rafters and the décor suited the natural, woodsy vibe of Punakaiki. The first night, we stayed in a cabin with 1 single room, 2 doubles, and 6-bed room that was also equipped with a full kitchen, 2 baths, a living room and a terrace. To reach the other cabins, you had to walk through the woods on a path lit by small solar lights.

www.tenikauretreat.co.nz

Te Nikau Retreat

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The Pancake Rocks are the main attraction in Punakaiki. (In fact, the ‘town’ is a few simple buildings situated near the entrance to The Rocks that house 2 cafes, an information centre, a gift shop and a tavern.) A short walk from the main road toward leads to a maze of cliffs and pillars jutting out of the sea. However, a closer look reveals that these pillars are unique because they are created by hundreds of layers of sediment, each only 3-4 inches thick, resembling a stack of pancakes reaching high out of the ocean. Watching the surf pound against these massive structures, it was easy to imagine how they had been eroded and shaped, how the perpetual force of the waves had created the bridges, caves and blow holes below. To this day, scientists have not been able to determine how the thin layers of rock were formed.

www.punakaiki.co.nz

Pancake Rocks

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While in Punakaiki, Josh and I took a leisurely stroll down the Pororari River Track in Paparoa National Park. It was a beautiful trek through the bush and we saw tons of the native Nikau Palm trees that the area is known for (the namesake of Te Nikau Retreat). When the fronds of the Nikau Palm fall from the tree, they turn into dry, hollow cones with spiky tips and resemble the helmets of giant Roman warriors.  We also visited of Punakaiki Cavern, a pitch black crevasse where the ceilings and walls are embedded with thousands of ancient fossils.

Pororari River Track

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A 10-minute walk from Te Nikau Retreat through dense jungle led us to the beach. Half way there, we could already hear the steady rush of the waves crashing against the shore and we arrived on the bluff just as the sun was beginning to set over the ocean. 

On the beach, Josh came across a dead squid and we were continually swarmed by sand flies – more proof of NZ wildlife. There is a Maori legend that tells the story of a goddess plaguing the west coast of the South Island with these tiny, biting bugs so that travelers would only stay long enough to witness the breathtaking beauty, then move on. It worked for us and we were back up to the cabin by the time the sun had set!

Beach at Te Nikau Retreat

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Banks Track - Stoney Bay to Otanerito

Early Wednesday morning, we awoke to a rooster call and rose to get ready for the 6k walk to Otanerito. We hiked up the cliffs along the coast again and somehow missed the blowholes, but got some great pictures of the sea arch from high above! This was the least difficult of section of hiking thus far, a good warm-up for the afternoon ahead.

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Our lunch stop on day 2 was at Otanerito, the cutest cottage of them all (including a fridge stocked with bottled beer)! Chris cooked up some gluten-free pasta with tuna and tomatoes - interesting to meet another gluten intolerant hiking enthusiast so far from home! After a short lunch break, we got back on the trail for the final 10k leg back down to Akaroa.

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We started with a steep and never-ending climb through the bush – it felt just like you were deep in the Amazon jungle, minus the monkeys, frogs and bugs! I happened to be in the lead when we turned a corner and ran upon a poisoned possum in the road. Apparently they are the biggest pests in New Zealand, introduced by settlers long ago, but now outnumbering sheep and even people and known for destroying the vegetation. Possum traps are everywhere in the bush, but it is sad to see them killed because they’re still much cuter than the ugly possums we have at home!

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As the vegetation started to change, we realized we were finally nearing the top of the chasm! We tramped through what looked to be ‘hobbit land’ in the Red Birch forest and stopped for a snack break at what we thought to be ‘the saddle’. We finally did reach the summit and thought the hard part was over… until we began the super-long, super-steep tramp (sometimes walking backward!) down to Akaroa. Chris and Rachel were smart and had left their car near the track, so we took them up on their offer of a ride into town. After such a long 2-days, it didn’t even feel like cheating! Chris convinced us to go back to the Akaroa Fish Shop for some more well-deserved fish and chips.

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It’s just crazy to look back on the past 2 days and think about how many things fell into place to set us up for a once-in-a-lifetime hike! We owe so much to Geoff and Shelly for pointing us in the right direction and lending us their gear. We were also so fortunate that Chris and Rachel were our bunkmates. They were such a fun couple and there’s no one we would have rather been stuck in the middle of nowhere with! There is a certain amount of risk involved in trusting and opening up to other people… in NZ it seems we’re finding out just how much that risk can pay off!

Banks Track - Onuku to Stoney Bay

On recommendation from Geoff and Shelly (and with 2 of their sleeping bags in tow), we headed to Akaroa to do a 2-day hike on the Banks Peninsula (www.bankstrack.co.nz). We booked the trip on standby, boarded a shuttle downtown and crossed our fingers as the driver weaved his way up and over the hills of dormant volcanoes toward the harbor town of Akaroa, a French settlement an hour and a half east of Christchurch. Captain James Cook was the first to land here, mistakenly naming the peninsula Banks Island, not realizing that the gorgeous NZ South Island was attached to it! With a couple hours to kill before our shuttle to the Banks, we strolled through the gardens and shops and had a dinner of fresh fish and chips at the famed Akaroa Fish Shop. Yum!

The Banks Track is an amazing hike through privately owned farmland and reserve. The track and 4 huts are attended to by farmers who gain extra income from the fees paid by hikers. To maintain the pristine conditions of the track, it is closed to the public and only 16 people are allowed to do the hike at any one time. You can choose to walk the 35k in either 2 or 4-days. Being the super-fit athletes we are, of course the 2-day option was for us!

That evening, our shuttle took 16 hikers (12 doing 4-days, 4 doing 2-days) from Akaroa onto the peninsula and dropped us at the the first of 4 cabins. At the Onuku cabin, the 2-dayers had a detached hut with our own kitchen and 2 bedrooms. The property was beautifully landscaped and cabins were equipped with full kitchens, solar lighting, shared outhouses and very cool ‘stargazers’ (plexiglass sleeping huts with queen mattresses). We spent most of the evening in the 4-day hut, drinking wine around the wood-burning stove and getting to know the group. We met Amanda from Seattle and Nick from Detriot (2 couchsurfers touring NZ together), Dave and Sue from Chicago (who work seasonally in Montana Glacier NP and Antarctica during 24hr sunlight), other various British biddies (who dared to question our super-fitness!), and Chris and Rachel from Otago NZ (our 2-day tramping buddies).

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From Onuku, Chris, Rachel, Josh and I started out early with a steep climb up to Look Out Rock. I was the brave one who climbed out for a photo. On our way up the hill, we took another marked detour to ‘the end’ of the ridge walk, all the while talking politics and religion. We had ‘morning tea’ and rested a bit at the top of the hill, but not long enough for all the 4-dayers to pass us! 

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We continued the 11k morning tramp through sheep paddocks along the coastal ridge with stunning views of the harbor. Then we got a chance to dive into the bush, detouring to several waterfalls and swimming holes before arriving at Flea Bay cottage.

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At Flea Bay, Chris and Josh raided the fridge and purchased a couple beers on the honour system. Chris and Rachel introduced us to ‘baked bean toastie pies’ for lunch. As the 4-dayers arrived and unpacked their gear, we took off our shoes and sat on the porch drinking coffee and contemplating the 8ks left ahead. The boys grabbed another Tui (local beer) for the road and we made our way up from Flea Bay to the cliffs above the harbor. It was amazing to look back from where we’d come to see the waves crashing on the rocks and the dolphins and gulls playing in the bay below! 

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We continued up and down the coast, passing the red cliffs, the hole in the rock, and Pompeii’s Pillar in the sea. We paused to peer into the seal cave and caught glimpses of them resting on the rocks and twirling in the surf. We made another steep climb down the side of the cliff to Stoney Bay cottage, relieved to have finally found our refuge for the night!

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At Stoney Bay, we were curtly greeted by some unhelpful ‘oldies’ who promptly pointed us to our hut. Luckily, we didn’t need to make any more friends and the accommodations were too luxurious to worry about it! Our hut had a kitchen, wood-stove, outdoor grill and sink. The shower in the tree was a neat (and necessary) experience – Josh said it felt a little ‘Gilligan’s Island’! 

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There was free coffee, tea and sugar available along with a stock of local beer, wine, farm-fresh steak, veggies and eggs, milk, yogurt, cereals and candy bars in the ‘wee shop’. We pooled our money for dinner and Chris was dubbed the master chef after making a gourmet meal of steak, eggs and chips. We shared 2 bottles of wine from the pantry and played a couple hands of hearts. After Chris and Rachel started the fire, we took turns in the ‘bathtubs under the stars’. No electricity here, but we blew out the candles pretty early anyway, as we were all spent! 

South Island Hospitality

The ‘Marathon of Friendship’ was in full swing again when we hopped off the plane in Christchurch to meet Geoff and Shelly. The easy going, quick-witted couple run an adventure touring company on the South Island and were kind enough to take us in sight unseen after a few short emails. Geoff said anyone who quits their jobs to ‘re-focus’ and travel New Zealand must have some good stories!

After passing the landmarks in Christchurch and hearing a little of the history, we unload our gear in the self-contained apartment over the garage and met in their living room for conversation over wine, rugby and the Vancouver Olympics opening ceremonies. The next morning, we organized the day over musli, then Geoff drove us up Dyer’s Pass road and dropped us at the summit of a great mountain biking track so we could enjoy the run back down.

Over the next couple days, we learned that Geoff and Shelly have travelled the world over. They were both teachers in a previous life, then made the leap from outdoor retail to adventure tourism with just a van and some cycles in their driveway. Now the organization is a bustling business, with summer guides taking foreign and local tourists across New Zealand on group bike, hike and walk trecks. Their ambition and courage were inspiring, especially because they seem to have found their passion and live it daily!

Josh and I spent Valentine’s Day in downtown Christchurch, a British settlement that Geoff dubbed ‘more English than England’. With street names like Gloucester and Cambridge, British colonial architecture and old-time red phone booths, there was a distinct resemblance to Boston! We wandered through the Arts Centre marketplace, a myriad of galleries, craft and jewelry shops and had takeaway lunch on the lawn. We strolled through Cathedral Square and visited the Christchurch Cathedral and the Chalice (a giant steel waffle cone structure erected to commemorate the city’s birthday).

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Christchurch is aptly named ‘The Garden City’ for its bountiful botanical garden and Hagley Park (the third largest city park in the world behind Central and Hyde Parks).  

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We stopped to watch punters (gondoliers) carrying couples down the Avon, then shared a giant bowl of coffee before being picked up for dinner by our gracious hosts. A lovely Valentine’s Day in a quaint little city!

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Socializing and Sailing Lessons

On Friday evening, Alaina drove the 3 of us down to the posh suburb of Ponsonby (her favorite Auckland haunt, just west of the city). We had drinks with a few of her kiwi friends and tried to keep up with the conversation, in spite of the loud music and troublesome accents! Diane and Sid were a riot, even if we couldn’t understand a word they were saying! We stayed at Ponsonby Backpackers for the night so we could meet Alaina’s dad for sailing on the bay on Saturday morning.

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We met Murray and Jean at the marina around 9am, loaded up with some fresh quiche and panini from the café and set off on their gorgeous 41-foot sailing yacht, First Landing. Murray has been doing recreational and competitive sailing since he was 10 years old and he and Jean have entered some competitions together. Currently, they live on Australia’s Gold Coast during the winter and sail around New Zealand for a few months each summer.They told us they like Waiheke Island the best and gave us some great food, wine and hiking tips to follow while we're staying there.

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Josh got to take the helm for a bit as we sailed out into the harbor, past Devonport. We saw 2 retired America’s Cup yachts doing sailing tours in the harbor and passed the Rhapsody of the Seas cruise ship docked in Auckland’s port. Josh (on the lookout for more dangerous sea life) spotted a little jelly fish floating by. We dropped anchor near Cheltenham for lunch, but it was a little too chilly to get in the water. Murray and Jean shared some fun stories about their adventures and it was great to see a couple who really is living their dream!  

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After motoring back into the marina and docking the boat, we parted ways, hoping to meet up with Murray and Jean on Waiheke Island in a few weeks. Then Alaina dropped Josh and I at the airport to catch our flight to Christchurch – the South Island journey begins!

Back to Work!

I know it’s been a while since I’ve written, but I sometimes more ‘doing’ and less ‘typing’ make for a better vacation! Plus, this week was pretty tame, so I can probably fit it all into one post and not bore you with the details.

We said farewell to Alaina’s nana and uncle on Sunday and made the drive back from Mt. Maunganui. Alaina had to go back to work this week, so she dropped us off in the quaint little coastal suburb of Devonport on Monday morning. We checked out the shops and walked up Mt. Victoria for a view of the Hauraki Gulf islands and Auckland city centre. Then we boarded the 12-minute ferry to Auckland and spent some time wandering the city. On our self-serve walking tour, we passed the Sky Tower, Auckland University (where Alaina went to school) and a pretty park (where we stopped for a snack).   

We ferried back to Devonport and had dinner with Alaina at an Irish pub. That’s where we learned that all the ‘pie shops’ we’d passed had been advertising savory pot pies, not the fruity desserts you’d expect from a ‘pie shop’ at home. Josh loved his Guiness/steak/mushroom stew topped with flakey pastry (but probably would have been just as pleased with triple berry and whipped cream). Yum! 

With Alaina still doing her 9-5, Josh and I spent a couple transportation-free days running and relaxing on Orewa Beach. We must have walked the hill back to Alenka’s house 10 times and I swear it got longer and steeper each trip! Josh wasn’t too keen to go swimming in the ocean with me after Alaina and I had encountered a giant sting ray at Paparoa Beach. Then, just after I’d convinced him to come back in the water, a bunch of crabs scurried by and scared him back to his towel! NZ has no wildlife to speak of, but beware of the sea creatures, cuz they’ll getcha!

Culture Clash and Stinky Mud

Saturday was Waitangi Day, a public holiday to commemorate the signing of a treaty between the British settlers and the indigenous Maori people. The history here seems to be quite similar to that of the Native Americans – European folk came in, gave the Maori new diseases and drugs and then ‘graciously allowed’ them to come under British rule. Needless to say, there’s lots of controversy afoot during holiday weekends!

We made our way out to Rotorua, a touristy spot famous for its distinctive sulphury stench and bubbling mud pools. The area is a literal ‘hot bed’ of geothermal activity in the middle of the North Island – Mother Earth’s little reminder that you’re not safe from volcanic explosions and the like, even in paradise! We toured around the town, visited the lake and the mud pool gardens and then visited a traditional Maori village where they were putting on a small festival with native dancing and food vendors. I almost joined in… to bad I forgot my poi balls at home! ;)

Saturday evening, we had takeaways (take out food) from Zeytin and ate in the park by the harbor beach. Another gorgeous evening on the water! Then we visited the Stock Exchange bar for some big screen rugby and Josh got to try out his newfound knowledge of the game. Hmmm… I think I can get behind a game that’s faster and more dangerous than American football, especially when the fans wear funny costumes (think Power Puff Girls, Super Mario, and Avatar characters!) and the pre-game includes players dancing around shirtless! Go All Blacks!