U-Turn

My hiatus from writing has been a little selfish. I have trouble admitting mistakes, and it seemed that this cross-country trip had turned out to be a big one! But, with a new year upon us, it is time to write this page of the story so that I can start 2011 with a clear conscience and a fresh outlook.

Arizona was full of surprises. We made peace with the hot desert sun, who greeted us every morning on our run and played fireworks off the mountains every evening. We witnessed celestial and atmospheric wonders - cotton candy colored clouds, night skies awash in twinkling lights, shooting stars and never-ending rainbows. We came face to face with scorpions, rattlesnakes and javalinas - the wildlife of cowboy legends! We worked and played hard, exploring every corner of our tiny artist hamlet. We met fantastic people and shared fantastic stories. And, best of all, we realized that we are brimming with all the resources we need to live epic, meaningful lives, we just need to dig down and tap into them!

Looking back on it now, Josh and I can be proud that all of our decisions over the past year have been grounded in lengthy research and thoughtful deliberations. Maybe the 'U' in u-turn stands for 'understanding'. We gained a lot of that from this recent turn around. Sometimes, no matter how carefully you plan your route, the road of life hands you giant potholes and dangerous curves. When you hit a rough patch, is up to you to stay the course. We are ready to head full-speed into 2011, with the faith that following our hearts will never lead us to a dead end.

View from the valley

Evening rain set ablaze

A lost little friend

More magical desert weather

Ceremonial Tubac

Coyote moon

Biking into the great wide open

Casita kitchen

Casita living room

Our casita - Room enough for 2!

Chapel at the golf course

Turkey vultures waiting for prey

Chasing Desert Dreams (CO Continued!)

To all our family and friends who are anxiously awaiting the day when Josh and I will finally 'settle down', you should know that Colorado Springs is definitely on the short list of places we'd LOVE to live! 

We were lucky enough to Couchsurf with an amazing, energetic, athletic and like-minded couple who pointed us to the best running, biking and driving routes in the area.Val and Brenda are both avid runners and share our passion for exercise and healthy eating. They take their golden lab, Buddy on their daily jaunts. It seems pretty easy to stay fit when you enjoy a temperate climate that boasts 300 plus days of sun each year and you can drop down the bluff behind your subdivision and be instantly transported to a rocky, mountainous running trail!

Peanut gets comfy in Buddy's big dog bed!

Peanut's new pal, Buddy

Using their gorgeous house as a base camp, Josh and I woke early to get in our morning bike ride and run on the Santa Fe Trail. Working against the altitude change, we clambered up the rolling hills, waving at dozens of other trail mavens as we passed by.

Our fanciest Couchsurfing digs yet in Val & Brenda's basement suite

We cleaned up from our morning workout, strapped Peanut into his makeshift 'seatbelt' and set out for the drive up Pike's Peak. There is an old cog railway that makes the steep ascent to 14,110 feet. But, Josh and I figured we'd challenge our Mazda 3 warranty and take the scenic 19-mile road to the summit. I kicked it into low gear as we climbed up hills and around switchbacks. 

Winding road up to Pike's Peak

We marveled at the change in temperature and vegetation on the route. The brisk air and golden aspens gave us a taste of those apple orchard autumn days we knew we'd be missing in the desert this fall. 

Fantastic fall color!

We stopped for photos at the reservoir, where families and fisherman lined the shores. We made our way past towering evergreens up to the barren, rocky plateau at the summit.  

From the mountain top, on a clear day, there are spectacular views of four states! We peered out over the vast expanse at the Continental Divide, the cities of Denver, Manitou Springs, Colorado Springs and the historic gold camps of Cripple Creek and Victor. 

The road to heaven?

Peanut posing at the summit

On the journey back down the mountain, we made a mandatory stop at the ranger station. The brakes on the Mazda were burning and we were asked to pull over for a while and cool our heels! We shared a cup of Joe and soaked in some more scenery before making it safely back down to the Springs. 

Pike's Peak ranger station

Josh and Peanut in the evergreens

When we couldn't bear to leave Colorado just yet, Val and Brenda were gracious enough to grant us another night's stay! The four of us got dolled up and spent the evening out on the town. We sat on the patio at Southside Johnny's, eating, chatting, people watching and listening to live music. 

As we drove away the next morning, Josh was already on the phone, searching for jobs in Colorado Springs and planning a ski trip this winter. We can't wait to get back to catch up with our new friends!  

Chasing Desert Dreams (KS to CO)

We left Topeka before sunrise on Friday, September 15th. So excited to make our way to Colorado, we braved a torrential downpour that blew in sideways over the plains and split the sky with bright, crackling light. A few hours into the drive, the sky began to clear and we spent the day squinting over the dashboard at the horizon, waiting for a glimpse of the Colorado Rockies in the distance.

First view of the Rockies

A stunning sky

We finally rolled into Colorado Springs around 4pm, made a pit stop for coffee (Meg) and a glass of Soul (Josh) at Trinity Brewing Co. (www.trinitybrew.com). Geared up and ready to stretch our legs, we headed straight over to Garden of the Gods (www.gardenofgods.com). 

All 3 of us at Garden of the Gods

The national park is filled with the most fantastic red sandstone and limestone geologic formations! Miles of well-groomed trails allow you to hike, bike, drive or ride horseback around and in-between the massive structures.

Apparently, layers of sediment were deposited horizontally over the fault line eons ago. Then, serious forces deep below the earth pushed the layers of rock up and tilted them vertically on end.

Josh with the world on his shoulders

There are also giant rocks balancing precariously atop much smaller ones because, over hundreds of years, the sediment has slowly eroded away beneath.

Biking through Garden of the Gods

When you think back to all you learned about mountains, glaciers and erosion in grade school, these explanations seem to add up. But somehow, when you're standing in the shadows of this bizarre and beautiful arrangement, all scientific and geological reasoning comes up short!

Lucky Josh kept that helmet on!

Chasing Desert Dreams (MO to KS)

Already dreading the 2-day drive through Kansas, Josh and I were reluctant to leave St. Louis but got an early start. Half way to Topeka, we had a hankering for some  Kansas City BBQ and used our handy-dandy smart phone to find a lunch stop. Luckily, we stumbled upon the infamous Arthur Bryant's Barbeque, a historic KC landmark which has hosted the likes of Presidents Truman and Carter, Robert Redford, Jack Nicholson, Wilt Chamberlain and more. The original restaurant just happens to be a stone's throw from I-70 and the line from the lunch crowd was starting to dwindle when we pulled in at 2:30.

Josh was having a mini panic attack in the quick-moving queue, trying to decide between chicken, ribs, beef or the house specialty 'burnt ends'. We were surrounded by Arthur's regulars who informed us not to hymn and haw at the window, or the no-nonsense cooks behind the glass would pass us by! Thankfully, a crew of hungry-looking guys behind us recommended a fan favorite - the turkey/beef brisket combo sandwich.

Pouring the sauce over a turkey and beef brisket sandwich

The magical mess of meat, white bread, pickles and fries was spread across a giant piece of parchment paper and doused with Arthur's special BBQ sauce - Yum! We took our 'sandwich' to-go and picnicked on the grass outside. Peanut was all to eager to help with the leftovers!

Quintessential Kansas scenery

After lunch, we struck out over the plains of Kansas, motoring for miles without a town in site. I applaud Katharine Lee Bates for making the 'amber waves of grain' seem so majestic in the song America the Beautiful. I can only assume that she had seen them from a great distance, and didn't spend a day driving through them! The majesty can be somewhat lost on the weary cross-country traveler.

When we arrived in Topeka, we took in the tiny capital city of Kansas and then made our way to Monroe Elementary School. This seemingly inauspicious brick building on the outskirts of town is the historic site of the Brown v. Board of Education lawsuit that eventually dismantled the legal basis for racial segregation in schools and public facilities across our nation. Inside the school, the small classrooms and knee-high water fountains set the scene. Innovative, intelligent teachers who were confined to teach in all-black elementary schools. Young, innocent children whose parents rallied together to win this groundbreaking class action suit.

Monroe Elementary School - Brown vs. Board Historic Site

The interactive exhibits are a wealth of information and really engage you in history. Walking the halls and classrooms, you are transported to a time in the not too distant past when 'separate but equal' was an acceptable way of life. Josh and I were moved, embarrassed, humbled and enlightened during this emotional history lesson. We would put Monroe Elementary on the 'must see' list of anyone traveling through Topeka, Kansas.

Hard to imagine, harder still to forget

Topeka Capitol Building

We hooked up with our new CouchSurfing hosts, Jim and Lisa, at their country home just outside Topeka. Peanut was excited to run and roll in the grass and cozy up to their 12yr old terrier, Maggie. We've found that, in general, CouchSurfer conversations tend to be no-holds-barred. In the one night we stayed with Jim and Lisa, we chatted about everything from family to religion to politics. They also introduced us to the fantastic Globe Indian Cuisine restaurant (You're not in Kansas anymore, Dorothy!) where we split garlic naan bread and shared steaming plates of spicy goodness. After a delicious dinner, we crashed on a comfy airbed in Jim and Lisa's guest room and let the crickets lull us to sleep.

Jim & Lisa's place

Chasing Desert Dreams (IN to MO)

On Sunday, September 12, we made a b-line for St. Louis, passing through Illinois and over the Mississippi River along the way. Most of the drive was pretty unremarkable (think fields and cow pastures, stretching out for miles and miles). But we did manage to catch a photo of a gigantic shining cross, towering over the highway in Illinois. We took it as a sign of all the prayers Josh's mom sent out in church that morning! 

Tried to get all the Welcome to... signs as we passed by

A Baptist's woman's work in action!

Awww... I just missed the Welcome to MO sign... twice!

We missed our exit and got turned around, but managed to arrive at our new host's townhouse just in time to join her for a CouchSurfing potluck in town. The 3 of us piled in Laurie's car and headed off to meet some other new friends while Peanut stayed behind to play with Laurie's dog, Diva (who was super-friendly, but roughly 6 times his size!). 

Laurie's dog, Diva

At the potluck, we met a couple dozen local St. Louis CouchSurfers who had some great stories (and edible goodies and local Schlafly beer!) to share. Abby, an energetic college grad was leaving in a week for AmeriCorps chainsaw and wilderness training! Stephen passed his amazing Dishpan Cookies around the campfire (see recipe below)! Laurie chimed in with the unbelievable (yet true) tale of how her daughter funded her round-the-world trip with her big win on The Price is Right!

The next morning, Laurie had to work, but she pointed us in the direction of the nearby and pleasantly paved Grant's Trail (http://stlbiking.com/Trail-GrantsTrail.htm). Josh chose to run while I headed out on 2 wheels past fun local attractions like The Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site and Grants Farm, where I could see the majestic Anheuser-Busch Clydesdales grazing just beyond a little white fence (www.grantsfarm.com). Too bad I didn't have the camera handy!

After our morning exercise, we cleaned up and drove down into the city for some sightseeing. Josh and I stood captivated near the waterfront in the shadow of the awesome St. Louis Arch, which stands 630ft tall and hovers above the city (www.gatewayarch.com). We made our way underground and paid $10 each to climb inside a tiny, egg-like capsule with 2 other tourists, hoping to challenge Josh's fear of heights with a harrowing ride to the top of the Arch. Unfortunately, there aren't any windows in the side of the building, so the only fear to face on the way up was claustrophobia. But the view from the top was worth the ride, a stunning portrait of downtown St. Louis! We could see the Capitol Building, Busch Stadium (home of the Cardinal's baseball) and the paddle boats on the Mississippi River far below.

A peek inside the tiny pod that climbs the Arch

View of downtown St. Louis from the Arch

Josh captured my perfect cartwheel under the Arch

When we arrived back on solid ground, the afternoon sun was high in the sky, so we decided to stay below the surface and check out the Museum of Westward Expansion. There were beautiful displays of animals, vehicles and scenery that depicted Americans' journey across the Mississippi to inhabit the western United States. Josh was particularly fond of the baseball exhibit, which detailed the founding and development of the Major League teams across the US.

Looks real enough to saddle up and ride!

Just call me Captain Meg

Cheering on the team in the Cardinal's baseball exhibit

The Arch, the Capitol Building and The Runner in the fountain

There's nothing like CouchSurfing to make you feel right at home after a long, hot day of walking in a new city! That evening, Laurie, Josh and I worked together to create one of her favorite recipes from the Moosewood Cookbook, Zucchini-Crusted Pizza. 

This was an amazing dish, bursting with veggies and flavor that all you calorie-counting, wheat-conscious, pizza loving kids should try!  Here's the link to the recipe: www.molliekatzen.com/recipes/recipe.php?recipe=zucchini_pizza. But, Laurie wouldn't forgive me if I didn't provide the following caveat: Never use aluminum foil! 

We shared a drink, toasted to CouchSurfing and to each other's good fortune and shared a great meal on our last night in St. Louis.

Laurie's signature zucchini-crusted pizza - yum!

Laurie, Brett, Josh and I  - To CouchSurfing!

Delectable Dishpan Cookies
recipe by: CS Stephen

2 c. white sugar
2 c. brown sugar
3/4 c. oil
1 c butter (melted)
2 tsp. vanilla
4 eggs (beaten)
4 c. flour
2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
2 tsp. cream of tartar
1 c. coconut
1 c. oatmeal
1 bag Heath toffee bits
4 c. rice krispies

1. Cream sugars, oil, melted butter, and vanilla.
2. Beat eggs together and mix into batter.
3. Add flour, baking soda, salt, and cream of tartar.
4. Stir in coconut, oatmeal, toffee bits, and rice krispies.
5. Bake at 350 for 11-12 minutes or until golden brown.